There's just something about
poof-y swags of silk --especially
red silk-- that I have always admired. I just love how the light changes within the opulent folds of the fabric. And since I thought that my Music Room
screamed for another touch of red, it seemed a natural choice.
Besides, I read in
World of Interiors that Britain's
Prince Charles had navy-blue silk balloon shades recently installed in one of his Palladian country houses (and what's good enough for
His Royal Highness is certainly good enough for the likes of me)!
This style of curtain looks fussy and complicated to make, but nothing could be further from the truth. It's really only a hemmed rectangle of fabric with a curtain rod pocket at the top. The poofs are formed by simple gathering in rows.
Here's how I did it:
Step 1. Determine the size of your pattern by measuring the width of your window and multiply by three. In my case the window was three inches wide x three = nine inches. Add a half inch for hems for a total of nine and a half inches.
The length of your shade is simply the measurement from the top of your window to the sill, plus one inch for rod pocket and hem. Are you still with me?
Step 2. After cutting out your fabric, use a product such as
Fray Check around all four edges to lock the threads in place.
(You might want to test the Fray Check on a scrap of your curtain fabric first. On my red silk, the Fray Check turned the fabric very dark, but most of that discoloration disappeared once it dried).
Step 3. Once the Fray Check has dried a little, carefully clip the raw edges of your curtain panel 1/8 -1/16th of an inch all around.
Now your fabric edges should be locked in place, with no dangling threads.
Step 4. Press the two side seams down 1/8th of an inch or so. The iron will help the Fray Check dry completely. Press the top and bottom 1/8th inch over as well. Finally, Press the top of your panel an additional 1/2 inch to form the rod pocket.
Here's how it will look
(above) and
(below):
Step 5. Now it's time to sew! (No
Pretty Pleater required). Start with the two 'sides' of the panels and be sure to set your machine with a very small stitch.
TIP: I found some thread that is much 'thinner' than normal and I thought this would help reduce the 'bulkiness.' It worked like a charm!
Once the sides are stitched down, proceed with the hem, and then sew closely along the rod pocket seam. Finally, top-stitch 1/8-1/4 inch along the top of the panel --this will make a nice, neat pocket for your curtain rod.
Step 6. Set your machine on a large, 'basting stitch' setting and sew along the two sides from the bottom of the rod pocket, down to the hem. Leave a long, length of thread at the bottom and do not knot it.
Divide the panel into even quarters and stitch along those lines from the bottom of the rod pocket to the hem. Leave an un-knotted length of thread here too.
(viewed in the photo, above, left).
Step 7. Carefully pull the threads to form the gathers. Work slowly so you don't break the basting stitch!
(If you do, you can always go back and repeat
Step 6).
This is what it will look like
(left) at this point. Almost finished!
Step 8. Adjust your gathers to the desired length and tie off the basting stiches. Set your machine back to a small stitch setting and sew over the basting threads, locking the gathers in place. You can now remove the basting stitches if they show too much. Clip off any loose threads.
Step 9. Slip your curtain rod through the pocket and adjust your poofs! Be careful not to yank too hard or you risk breaking the gather stitches!
Step 10. Hang your completed shade, make the final adjustments, and enjoy your work!
I would like to add some gold fringe to the bottom hem --does anyone know of a good source?
Start to finish time: about fifteen minutes, per panel --
sweet! I don't know about you, but
I'm going to celebrate my new balloon shades with a smart little,
refreshing summer cocktail. (Don't you
love day-drinking on a lovely, summer's day)?
Have a great week, everyone!
